The lucky incoming crowd at Davis has Renato as one of the two new chefs (Brigid is the other). I thought it was hard to imagine the food being any better than it is until Renato sat down opposite me towards the end of lunch with a mug of chocolate icecream. I gave him a bit of grief about eating out of a mug so no one could see he had icecream, but he soon set me right. ‘Oh no,’ he said. ‘I’m just about to make an affogato. Do you want one?’

There goes the no dessert at lunchtime rule. My downfall is complete.

Jesse xxx